The City of Bristol's Backyard Wine Gardens: Foot-Stomping Grapes in Urban Gardens
Each quarter of an hour or so, an older diesel-powered railway carriage pulls into a spray-painted station. Nearby, a law enforcement alarm pierces the almost continuous traffic drone. Commuters rush by collapsing, ivy-covered garden fences as storm clouds gather.
This is perhaps the last place you anticipate to find a well-established vineyard. However James Bayliss-Smith has cultivated 40 mature vines heavy with round purplish grapes on a sprawling garden plot sandwiched between a row of historic homes and a local rail line just north of Bristol town centre.
"I've noticed individuals concealing illegal substances or other items in the shrubbery," says Bayliss-Smith. "But you simply continue ... and continue caring for your vines."
Bayliss-Smith, forty-six, a documentary cameraman who runs a fermented beverage company, is not the only urban winemaker. He has pulled together a informal group of cultivators who produce vintage from four hidden urban vineyards tucked away in back gardens and community plots throughout Bristol. The project is too clandestine to possess an formal title yet, but the group's messaging chat is named Vineyard Dreams.
City Wine Gardens Across the Globe
To date, the grower's plot is the only one registered in the City Vineyard Network's upcoming global directory, which includes more famous urban wineries such as the 1,800 plants on the slopes of Paris's renowned artistic district neighbourhood and over 3,000 vines overlooking and inside Turin. The Italian-based charitable organization is at the vanguard of a movement reviving urban grape cultivation in traditional winemaking countries, but has identified them all over the globe, including urban centers in East Asia, South Asia and Uzbekistan.
"Grape gardens assist urban areas remain more eco-friendly and more diverse. These spaces protect open space from development by creating permanent, yielding agricultural units inside cities," explains the association's president.
Like all wines, those produced in urban areas are a result of the earth the vines thrive in, the unpredictability of the climate and the individuals who tend the fruit. "A bottle of wine represents the beauty, community, landscape and heritage of a urban center," notes the president.
Mystery Eastern European Grapes
Returning to Bristol, Bayliss-Smith is in a urgent timeline to harvest the vines he cultivated from a plant abandoned in his allotment by a Eastern European household. Should the precipitation comes, then the birds may seize their chance to attack again. "This is the mystery Polish variety," he says, as he removes bruised and mouldy berries from the glistering clusters. "The variety remains uncertain their exact classification, but they are certainly disease-resistant. In contrast to noble varieties – Burgundy grapes, white wine grapes and other famous European varieties – you need not treat them with pesticides ... this is possibly a special variety that was developed by the Eastern Bloc."
Collective Efforts Throughout Bristol
Additional participants of the collective are also making the most of sunny interludes between showers of autumn rain. At a rooftop garden with views of the city's glistening harbour, where medieval merchant vessels once floated with casks of wine from France and Spain, one cultivator is harvesting her rondo grapes from approximately 50 vines. "I love the smell of these vines. The scent is so reminiscent," she remarks, stopping with a container of grapes slung over her shoulder. "It's the scent of Provence when you roll down the car windows on vacation."
The humanitarian worker, fifty-two, who has spent over 20 years working for humanitarian organizations in conflict zones, unexpectedly took over the grape garden when she returned to the United Kingdom from East Africa with her household in 2018. She experienced an overwhelming duty to look after the grapevines in the yard of their recently acquired property. "This plot has already survived multiple proprietors," she explains. "I deeply appreciate the concept of natural stewardship – of handing this down to future caretakers so they keep cultivating from this land."
Terraced Vineyards and Natural Winemaking
Nearby, the final two members of the group are busily laboring on the precipitous slopes of the local river valley. Jo Scofield has cultivated more than 150 vines situated on terraces in her wild half-acre garden, which descends towards the muddy River Avon. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she notes, indicating the tangled vineyard. "They can't believe they can see grapevine lines in a city street."
Currently, the filmmaker, sixty, is harvesting bunches of deep violet dark berries from lines of plants arranged along the cliff-side with the assistance of her daughter, her family member. Scofield, a documentary producer who has worked on streaming service's nature programming and BBC Two's Gardeners' World, was inspired to plant grapes after observing her neighbour's vines. She has learned that amateurs can produce intriguing, enjoyable traditional vintage, which can sell for upwards of seven pounds a serving in the growing number of wine bars specialising in minimal-intervention wines. "It's just deeply rewarding that you can actually make quality, traditional vintage," she states. "It's very fashionable, but in reality it's reviving an old way of producing wine."
"During foot-stomping the grapes, all the natural microorganisms are released from the surfaces into the juice," explains Scofield, ankle deep in a bucket of tiny stems, seeds and crimson juice. "This represents how vintages were historically produced, but industrial wineries add sulphur [dioxide] to kill the wild yeast and subsequently incorporate a lab-grown yeast."
Difficult Conditions and Creative Approaches
In the immediate vicinity sprightly retiree Bob Reeve, who motivated Scofield to plant her vines, has gathered his friends to pick white wine varieties from the 100 vines he has laid out neatly across two terraces. Reeve, a northern English PE teacher who taught at Bristol University developed a passion for wine on regular visits to Europe. However it is a challenge to cultivate this particular variety in the dampness of the gorge, with temperature fluctuations moving through from the Bristol Channel. "I wanted to make Burgundian wines here, which is a bit bonkers," says Reeve with amusement. "Chardonnay is late to ripen and particularly vulnerable to mildew."
"My goal was creating Burgundian wines in this environment, which is rather ambitious"
The temperamental local weather is not the sole challenge faced by grape cultivators. Reeve has had to erect a fence on